Breguet Vintage Type XX - XXI - XXII Chronograph ca 1978 Patina Dial & original hands Rare

A fine Breguet Type XX “Air Force” – Two-Register Chronograph  1978' – 41 mm – Cal. 235 – Patina Dial & Hands

A rare and important example of Breguet’s legendary aviation chronograph lineage, this late-1970s Type XX captures the purposeful beauty of the original Air Force specification while offering the crisp presence collectors chase.

Born from Breguet’s contracts to supply pilot’s chronographs to French military aviators, the Type XX became the benchmark for legibility, robustness, and mission-ready timing. This piece, dating to approximately 1978, presents exactly what connoisseurs want: a beautifully even, honest patina across the dial and hands; a sharp, well-preserved 41 mm case with strong lines; and the coveted two-register (bicompax) layout that defines the classic tool-watch aesthetic.

Under the hood beats the hand-wound, column-wheel chronograph Calibre 235, a direct descendant of the great mid-century pilot movements renowned for their precision, tactile pusher feel, and serviceability. The chronograph engages with satisfying authority, reflecting the instrument-grade intent of the Type XX design.

To complement the watch’s period character, we’ve paired it with a new light-grey suede leather strap (fine grain, soft touch) that frames the patinated dial beautifully and adds a subtle contemporary elegance without distracting from the original head. (Strap new, watch head all original.)

Highlights

Model: Breguet Type XX “Air Force” two-register chronograph

Year: c. 1978 (approx.)

Case: 41 mm stainless-steel case, crisp and well-preserved with strong edges

Dial: Original matte dial with even, attractive patina; balanced bicompax layout; excellent legibility

Hands & Lume: Original hands with matching patina, harmonious with the dial

Movement: Manual-winding Cal. 235 (column-wheel chronograph), running correctly

Crystal/Bezel: Classic pilot’s configuration emphasizing clarity and timing functionality

Strap: New light-grey suede leather band (aftermarket), complements the watch’s vintage character

Condition: A very rare example in all-original vintage condition; case remains crisp, dial and hands show coherent patina; overall very well preserved

Why this Type XX matters

Few watches bridge military provenance and haute horlogerie heritage as convincingly as the Type XX. It is an authentic pilot’s instrument with Breguet’s name on the dial—an intersection of function and pedigree that remains perennially in demand. Late-1970s, two-register, hand-wound examples in original, unmolested condition are increasingly scarce, and the market has consistently rewarded such pieces for their integrity and aesthetic harmony.

For the discerning collector

This is a fine collector’s piece (pour collectionneur averti): historically resonant, mechanically engaging, visually charismatic, and wonderfully wearable at 41 mm. Given its originality, rarity in this state, and the enduring appeal of Breguet’s aviation chronographs, it is the kind of watch that is well-positioned to be valued by collectors over time.

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